Friday, May 16, 2014

Darren Carlaw: Blinking Eye: A Photographer's Story




Blinking Eye: A Photographer’s Story By Darren Carlaw

My sight is failing. Some would say my eyes are on the blink. Blinking eyes. I thought the doctor at the R.V.I. was having a laugh. 

“What job do you do, Tom?” he asked in that snooty ding dong tone you get down London. 

I sat picking at the stitching of the surgery chair.

“Photographer,” I said. “Isn’t that just my luck?”

An uncomfortable pause. He didn’t look like a lad
who liked a joke. 

“How long before I’m blind then, doctor?” 

He pulled that doctor’s face that says the news isn’t good. Gave me some spiel about optic neuropathy. Optic what? 

“Soon then?” I cut him short.

He nodded.

And that was it. I was out on the street. Catching the bus back to Gateshead. 


Gateshead. Not the most beautiful woman you’ve ever known. More like your Aunty Gladys. A bit spikey if you cross her. But she’ll always pour you a cup of tea and make you feel at home. Like it or lump it, Gateshead’s my town. And just like Aunty Gladys, she’ll treat you canny if you know the right way round her. And I’ve gotta admit, I love the old lass. 

That’s why I’m here now. Out on the street recording this. Getting laughed at like a right silly bugger. 

I want to remember her. Right?

I want to remember Gateshead before she slips from view. Before I cannit see her.


So me mate had this idea. And gave us a portable tape recorder. 


Portable?” I says.

It’s like a bloody brief case. And here’s me humpin’ it around the streets


 It’s 1966 man. You think they’d a come up with something a bit smaller. 

Anyhow. Enough about that.

I don’t just take photographs at weddings and that. I always like to be out and about. Pokinme camera lens in shopkeepers windows. Takin’ snaps of people at work: The lads heading down to the railway yards. The lasses coming out of Shepherd’s department store with their makeup done. Aye. The buzz of the street, that’s my thing. 

When I’m blind, all those photos I took will be just cold paper in darkness.

But if I walk with this recorder and talk about what I se
e, well...

When I listen back to them tapes, I’ll be my own lamplighter, I’ll light up that dark world. 

Walkinmemories, sonna. Walkinmemories. That’s what I’m up to at the minute. 



Is it on? Aye. There’s the red light. This tape’s getting me goat like.I’d take a camera shutter release over a record button any day of the week. But beggars can’t be choosers, can they? 

Right. October 12th 1966. It’s a Wednesday. And this is Gateshead. This is how I see Gateshead. 

It’s Autumn and the last orange leaves are still clinging to the branches. One frees itself and comes circling down and gets trapped in the scrub. 

Up above six crisscrossy telephone wires string between the buildings and cut up the grey sky. 

North east weather, eh? Baltic as always. 

I’m outside the Essoldo cinema. 

When I first started taking’ pictures, I brought my camera here to the corner of the High Street and Sunderland Road. 

Something about this picture house always reminded us of New York. Maybe a photo I’d seen of the Flatiron Building or something. The old place was built in a fan shape and it had glitz. 

Aye, its flagged for demolition now. It’ll be gone next year. The council are putting the flyover in right through here. 

An’ the’ call that progress? 

Across the road, Geo. Wilkess furniture shop. A squat buildin’ with its half wheel motif above the top floor windows. A remember me mam buying a three piece there and thinking she was dead posh. 

Right, let’s get started – we’ll cut up the back lane of the High Street. 

‘Round the back of the pork butcher’s, I spy a well built lad liftin’ half a pig carcass from a two-tone Ford Thames van. Its cold skin presses into his shoulder: white porcelain ribs separated by fleshy membrane, and a limp, dangling trotter waving goodbye. 

He brushes straight past an old fella with a pepper coloured beard who is sweeping out the doorway. The fella’s tired broom darting between the delivery lad’s feet. 

Dietz the German butcher had hell on during the war. Always did a canny sandwich though. 

In the quiet back lane I like to look at the workings of the High Street. It gets you out the crowd. Old fruit and flower boxes from all over the shop stacked high against the walls. 

I took a great photo of Carol here standin’ by that red brick wall. We were walkinback from the Scala Picture House and a had me camera with us. She was wearin’ a black fitted mini dress and this tooled metal belt with turquoise stones. I remember she rolled her sleeves up to the elbow and gave me this defiant pose. Hands on hips. Aye, Carol...quite a stunner. 

The lane comes out here on Chandless Street. My great granddad used to live down there. It used to be a long row of terraces before they knocked it down in the late fifties. Replaced it with them tower block flats, the Chandless Estate. Bloody eyesore if I say so meself. 

Me an me old man used to drink in The Olde Fleece right here on the corner. A pint of double diamond. Bella the barmaid always had it ready on the bar as you walked in. 

I remember one night my old man had crossed words with a top class local boxing champion. ‘Course he didn’t know that at the time. They decided to settle it outside. Queensbury rules and all. Me dad soon saw the error of his ways. Always a bit gobby he was. 

Right. Out onto the High Street. 

Two leggy lasses waft by in a cloud of perfume and hairspray. They’re eyed up by a lad in a ‘Surf City’ t- shirt and ice blue denim who’s hanging around outside the chippy. The one with runny eye liner shoots him a hacky look. 

In the flats above the shops there’s a sash window open. Someone’s listening to the Stones at full belt. Can’t get no satisfaction? Aye, tell us about it, son. 

Along the road there’s Law’s Herbal Supplies. Have a look through the window. It’s still got the same marble bar I used to sit at as a kid. Me and Terry would always come here after we’d been train spotting and get a big browny-red glass of sarsaparilla. By the looks of things the bairns still do the same thing. Happy days, eh?

The Phoenix is right next door. A bloke with red bristling sideburns and a white shirt lurches out the bar and leans against the wall. He stares down at his worn brown brogues and spits out a chesty smokers cough. With a shake of the head, he gets a packet of tabs out his pocket. A cellophane wrapper curls to the gutter. “Aye” he says wearily under his breath. “Aye, Aye”. 

I always liked taking snaps of these fellas when they weren’t looking. Mind you, if they caught you youd better scarper quick or else. You’ve got to watch yourself in this game. 

Turning left at the Met, I walk along Jackson Street. 

There’s a couple of Mods admiring an aqua blue Vespa propped on its stand. One’s wearing a spear pointed button down collared shirt and a grey four button tonic suit and thinks he looks the business. A granny in a headscarf with a bag full of shopping looks at them suspiciously. 

If you want to avoid bumping into someone you know, avoid the Co-op. It’s full of busybodies. Just the other day Mrs. Tweddle said to me mam: “Tell your Tom to get a haircut.” Turns out she’d seen us on the High Street and thought I looked a right state. 

The Co-op’s a cracking looking building though. What’s it say up there? 1881? Look at them sandstone columns. On a sunny day the old masonry gives out a proper warmth. 

I could look up at this place for hours and still find something new. 

I mean, look at that, the Co-op coat of arms in a circle right at the very top. Some fella with a hammer and chisel sat and worked on that for weeks. But does anyone look up and notice? Do they wattle. 

Right. Let’s push on. 

As I turn right onto West Street, there’s St. Joseph’s where I was christened. I never stopped crying me mam said. I never did like water. 

Saying that, I’ve always liked the church’s slick black welsh slate roof when it rains. 

And I remember how the wild roses twisted around the black wrought iron railings of the presbytery. And how the housekeeper’s cat would slip between the overgrown planters every time I peered through the gate as a young ‘un. 

Up West Street, I head towards Shepherd’s. Past the schoolgirls feeding the pigeons and brickies with concrete dusted overalls. 

Lot of building work going on here at the minute. They’re busy putting up some sort of car park and shopping centre. It’s massive. Ugly anarl. 

Here’s Shepherds on the corner of Ellison Street. I remember in 1946 when this place burned down. Took them about three years to build a new one. The swankiest shop in town. They even have their own money.

Look in the shop window. Someone’s filled the whole display with white sand. At the back a hand painted scene of palm trees and seascape. A couple of inflatable beach balls. Mannequins in bikinis all sporting bobs. And a sign that reads: “From here to there, it’s faster by air: Fly BOAC”. I bet the travel agent is making a killing. 

And then there’s my reflection in the glass. The kink of a broken nose. The smudge of a mole. The diagonal of a chipped front tooth. There’ll be a time when I won’t see this face aging. When the skin will be no more a changing texture under my fingertips. It’s blurring. The image. It’s blurring even now. 

Blinkin’ eyes. Right Tom pull yourself together, lad. 

Ok. Note to self and anyone else who cares to listen: Out of sight, out of mind is an old lie. Never think otherwise. Never forget the town in front of you. Remember these images. Even in darkness. Hold on to them. The town is here for you. Part of your Gateshead is here. Right here on this tape. 





Today, the light

Today, the light is of no importance (unless it's the radiance within the heart we speak of).




Thursday, May 15, 2014

Wednesday, May 14, 2014

Monday, May 12, 2014

Amira Hanafi: Mahdy's Walk




                                                                               from 20 conversations
                                                                               on a walk in Ard el Lewa, Giza, Egypt 

                                                                               performed 20 times in April 2013 





            Who brought you here? 
                        (Huh?)
            Who brought you to this place? 
            Who told you about this route?




I am Mahdy Saad, from Nubia, from a place called Kalabsha.
I live in Ard El Lewa. I came here when I was in first grade.
I went to kindergarten there, and then thankfully I moved to Ard El Lewa. 

It’s a nice neighborhood, really nice.
There are really good people here.
For sure there are Nubians here, a lot of them.

            (How old are you now?) 
I am 18.






                        So, what I really am thinking
                        and also have been a little bit concerned about,
                        there’s an amazing amount of construction going on.
                        And from what I hear the prices are really, really going up
                        so it’s also a neighborhood which is, to a certain extent, 

                        being gentrified or becoming gentrified.
                        I was thinking about that village life that I enjoy,
                        that I was talking about earlier, is endangered.






                                                             ...7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13
                                                             They’re building up to 13 floors! 





                                                  No one cleans or supports anyone else cleaning.
                                                  If I see someone throwing trash, I’ll throw trash too 

                                                  until we get garbage cans in front of every house 
                                                  so no one throws trash in the street. 







           Anwar is a really talented fellow. 
           He has a workshop for upholstery 






 



And also, actually, that I’ve visited as a journalist,
they want to know what I’m going to say about the place.
People are concerned with what is your opinion,
what are you going to say, what kind of picture are you going to give of the place 







 

                                      According to the people that live in Ard El Lewa, 
                                      it’s called the Crazy Woman’s Canal.
                                      There was a crazy woman living here
                                      who threw herself in the canal,

                                      so they named the street after her 





 

           When you find a farmer who has land
           that gives him around 15,000 pounds a year,
           he’s so tired. He’s exhausted!
           He goes to buy chemicals, he goes to buy seeds and stuff,
           he works and toils and in the end,
           he gets 15,000 pounds a year.
           Someone comes to him and says he’ll buy the land for 3 million. 

           He says, “Great. I’ll keep a small piece, and eat from it,
           and build a house for my family, and live off the 3 million.”
           We improve our lives and our children’s. 







                                               They throw trash anywhere in the street, see! 
                                               They killed the tree with trash.
                                               They killed that tree with trash.
                                               They shouldn’t do that. There’s a bin over there, 

                                               they should put the trash over there.
                                               That wasn’t trash, but they made it trash.
                                               There’s supposed to be a truck that comes and takes it. 

                                               But it only comes sometimes, and there’s a lot of trash. 
                                               I don’t like this solution.
                                               People should come and put their trash here.
                                               Not just throw it anywhere in the street.
                                               This is called a trash area.
  




There was supposed to be a Parliament, but there isn’t one. 
                        (Did you come here to look at me?)
In that election, someone was supposed to win and take care of this area, do anything. 
But no, that didn’t happen. 






                        Now, since Mohamed Morsi has taken over the country, 
                        he hasn’t done anything.
                        Not in Darb al-Ahmar, not in Zarayeb, not in Ard El Lewa. 

                        As you can see here.
                        I’d like to say that on television. 




           (These cats are feasting.) 
Yes! Look at all these cats.
           (There are a lot of them.) 
There are.
1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6,
7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12.
Look at that little one right there! 

That was a cute...Oh! It got scared. 
Little puffball. 




                                                            There are some retarded people around here. 





                                   There were gypsies here, living in tents. 
                                   By the canal, on the edge.
                                   They left, when the buildings came. 




 

I think it’s completely wrong the way in which 
people living in informal neighborhoods
are made to feel that the lack of services
and the problems in their neighborhoods

are something they should be embarrassed about. 
Right? As opposed to...
            (As opposed to those who are responsible.)
Yeah, yeah. Like they need to make excuses or justify or defend 

the fact that the streets are unpaved
or that there’s trash or they don’t have certain basic public services 

whereas that is not a reflection on them.
             (And when in fact, what people don’t ever say, is
             “Congratulations on building an entire city, by yourselves.”) 
Right. Right. It’s obvious that people did what they needed to do.
I don’t know how many millions of people
moved to Cairo in the span of a few decades,
and they provided the housing that wasn’t there,
for themselves. 







                                                   Look at how that balcony looks. It’s really strange. 
                                                   It’s shaped like a cross. 

 

There are five garbage dumpsters in Ard El Lewa. 
            (Five?)
Only five. They’re all on the outer street, by the entrance.
For all of this, five dumpsters.
People are supposed to take the trash, hire a tok-tok, and go to the bin? 

And in the end you find the dumpster is full and you throw it on the ground. 
We pay the government, we pay a garbage collector
to come get the trash from the house.


 

           This was supposed to be a main street to serve the neighborhood.
           Like most main streets in Egypt you would find a garden.
           but this street didn’t become a street, and the garden didn’t become a garden. 

           Is this a street? It’s just a passage, full of dust and garbage.



 

                                                The garbage loves the dogs...the dogs love the garbage. 
                                                They cross the street to get to it. That’s the way it is. 





There is a youth club here, for youth in Ard El Lewa. 
There are some kids, some of them are my friends, 
they know how to draw in 3D.
They draw on the ground, graphics in 3D.

They try to solve Ard El Lewa’s problems by drawing. 




                                                                          Here is a high school for girls. 
                                                                          A lot of boys come here and 
                                                                          catcall the girls.
  









It was all like this, all of it. There wasn’t anything else.
  









 

When we first came to the neighborhood,
even in the street I live in now,
it used to be all farms.
There weren’t more than one or two houses. except now everything is buildings. 

This one, and the next, and the next and now here, even here...
But this, for instance, whoever owns it doesn’t want to sell. 
He has animals and this field in order to feed them.
            (That’s all clover, right?) 
Right. 





                                       We are going to take the next left, here. 




                                                              See that seat? It looks like a nice spot. 





                                           It’s funny how they just kind of leave them. 
                                                       (Wait, leave what?)
                                           Like, that building over there, like,
                                           these are unfinished, but that one people are living in, 

                                           but they don’t cover up the brick or the concrete, they just...
                                           I like that purple window, though.




                                           Look how quiet it is here. Wow.
                                           Quietest place I’ve found in the neighborhood so far. 






I think this place is a bit dangerous.
It’s cut off...You know, the whole street,
from its beginning to its end, is full of buildings, but not one person lives here. 

There’s no one to help you if anything should happen.
There are people walking, passing,
there are finished buildings, but no one lives here.
Maybe in just one apartment. 






                                     There’s no security in Ard El Lewa, at all.
                                     Maybe right now some thugs could pass us here. 

                                     Maybe they would rob us, and then...
                                     There is a school, a regular school
                                     and on Mother’s Day, people went in
                                     and murdered in the school.

                                                 (Murdered who?) 
                                     Murdered children.
                                                 (No way.)
                                     Yes, I swear. - I swear it happened.

                                                 (When was that?) 
                                     On Mother’s Day.
                                                 (But why?) 
                                     For no reason!
                                     They stole from the school, computers and stuff.



I used to be able to go out by myself at six o’clock,
I mean go out late by myself.
Now, my mom says I’m worried about you,
to the point that now, if I go out, I have to go with my mother. 

My mom is scared for me now. 



            I think the narrowness of the streets is just maximization. 
            Just to get the most out of all space.
            And if you have no central authority stepping in and saying 

            there has to be this much non-built space,
            this is the environment that a pure market will build, in a way. 
                         (Right) 



                                    Do you see all these kids in the tree?
                                    They found the one tree, and they like overloaded it.

                                                (Don’t you wish there were some girls in the tree, too?) 








                                                             Sheep...grazing on garbage?
                                                             I’ve seen goats eating those plastic bags.
                                                             I don’t know what they can do with mineral oil, 

                                                             uh...what good that does to their nutrition. 





Maybe this street could be good.
It could be cleaned, because there’s a lot of garbage,
and asphalt put down. It would be good.
And we have to take care of this garbage
and take it away, to someplace where there’s a garbage bin. 







                                                            (What is that? What is that? 
                                                            Boy! What are you doing?) 





Something happened to me, I was walking in the street.
A regular street, far away from where I live in Ard El Lewa. 

Someone called me “Shikabala,” since I am dark.
So I went and fought with him. And people shamed him.
I wasn’t annoyed, but I want to tell him,
maybe someone else would get annoyed. Maybe his friend. 










                         This place is curious. It’s a garage, for parking your car. 
                         And so far, on these walks, I’ve only seen two cars.
                                      (Maybe it’s new.)
                         That’s what I was thinking. Maybe it’s hope.
                         It’s like, “We hope, that one day, this will be a garage.” 





                                                  Everyone who comes, they get a piece of land,
                                                  they build a building, then a second, a third, a fourth. 

                                                  If someone has two buildings here, he has six or seven. 
                                                  Oh my God!
                                                  People who live here, how do they live? 










Coming just from Paris, you know, it’s very, very, very different. 
I was thinking that it’s like, you know, being...
you know a Fellini movie? You multiply like, a hundred
and this is kind of the feeling.

And you know, also, I’d like to take a lot of pictures.
But I don’t know if it’s appropriate or not, to make pictures. 







                         In Ramadan, the house isn’t important—the street is! 






 

                                                 But I think we have to entice them more.
                                                 Something more than just law saying you can’t build. 

                                                 So that if you are a farmer, you feel that
                                                 it is profitable for you, and productive,
                                                 and you’re doing something important.
                                                 He has to feel that way.
                                                 The public services he sees in Cairo
                                                 and wants to bring to his village and change it,
                                                 they have to give him that. 





                                                             Because in the law itself, there are little things 
                                                             that allow people to do this.
                                                             You come, you break the ground, you build on it, 

                                                             and then you pay a fine and you are absolved.
                                                             In the end, it becomes law. 




There are a lot of informal areas in Cairo, 
and each one has its own identity.
And I quite like here, actually. 






                                     From start to finish, I don’t like Ard El Lewa. 




                                     (Oh my God! You and her and her...wow!)
                         That’s what I'm talking about with security.
                         Yeah! It didn’t used to be like that.
                         People didn’t used to be that way.
                         Now, any guy who sees a nice girl,
                         and wants to catcall her, walk behind her...
                         There’s no security like we used to have.
                         It used to be, on Eid, I would stay in the street until morning. 

                         Now, my curfew is 10 o’clock. Not just me, all of us.
                         Now, I have to go home at 9 or 10.

                                     (You’re joking, they’ve told us 6 o’clock!) 


                                                  Should we get a violent scene on record,
                                                  of a slap? Whoosh!
                                                  “What really happens in the streets of Cairo.” 

                                                  That feeling, where you’re like I’m gonna,
                                                  I’m gonna hit that person.
                                                  I see that guy up there, if he says anything 

                                                  I’m gonna punch him in the face.
                                                              (Yeah, right, and you anticipate...) 
                                                 Yeah, and you’re like, nervous,
                                                 you get this, your heart is beating and you’re like, 
                                                 grrrrr, I’m ready! 







                                                                          And, does anybody know where
                                                                          the name of Ard El Lewa comes from? 







Leave me, I’m walking. I’m walking! 


















Thank you to Mahdy Saad for his generosity in sharing his walk in Ard El Lewa.
Thank you to walkers Phillip Schaufelberger, Hanaa Gad, Ahmed Elhawary, Amira Taha, Fatma Bakheet, Hamdy Reda, Mohamed Fatouh, Mahmoud ‘Bakar’ Ahmed, Mahmoud Saad, Amira El Sebaai, Nini Ayach, Mahmoud Bakheet, Jean-Luc Ayach, Ganna Hamada, Rawan Malik, Amira Hassan, Ursula Lindsey, Giulio Morello, Amr Salah and Amani Hanafi.

And thank you to all Ard El Lewa residents for allowing me to use their streets.